Day 1 - Thursday 11 June
Bilbao
First steps in Bilbao with Etienne
Ian and Daline land first at midday. A gentle introduction to the city: a stroll along the Nervión, a stop at the Guggenheim, and a first coffee on Plaza Nueva - the perfect place to try their very first pintxos of the trip.
John and Katerina arrive in the late afternoon. The group meets for the first time as four on the terrace of the Grand Hotel Artiste,, with the Guggenheim glittering below.
John very nearly sent the waiter's entire bottle of champagne flying. A baptism by fire - and the first of many laughs together.
Dinner at Costello, just beside the Guggenheim, for their first evening together as a group.
Day 2 - Friday 12 June
Bilbao
Bilbao in every light with Etienne
A full day under a blazing sun, starting with the funicular up above the city for the most beautiful panorama over Bilbao - sharing the cable car with local schoolchildren on their morning commute, as Bilbao does every day.
Back down into the old town: the story of the Siete Calles, the seven historic streets that gave birth to the city, and how the Nervión shaped everything around it.
Lunch over pintxos at the Mercado de la Ribera - one of the day's highlights.
The afternoon brought a private guided visit to the Guggenheim. A memorable moment: Etienne was quietly but firmly asked to leave by the guide mid-tour. The group survived without him.
Coming out of the museum, an unexpected gift: a live music festival in the park celebrating Iberdrola's 125th anniversary. Local music, a crowd of Bilbaínos, Basque cider for Ian - a perfect, unplanned ending to the day.
Dinner at Café Iruña, in a more modern and local quarter of the city - with a waiter who was, once again, very Basque.
Day 3 - Saturday 13 June
Getaria & San Sebastián
The road of surprises with Etienne
Leaving Bilbao, a detour that nobody saw coming: San Juan de Gaztelugatxe, the island hermitage made famous as a Game of Thrones filming location. A walk through the forest, a steep climb to the top, and a view over the Atlantic that made every step worth it. Everyone made it - well done to all.
Then the scenic coastal road to Getaria: ocean on one side, mountains on the other, the landscape rolling past like a film.
Lunch at Txoko in Getaria - turbot grilled over embers, one of the finest addresses on the Basque coast. A small drama at arrival: running late, the waitress was not inclined to give us the table. Fortunately, your guide negotiated. The meal was worth every bit of it.
Drop-off in San Sebastián in the late afternoon, with the evening free to explore the city and discover the pintxos bars at their own pace.
Day 4 - Sunday 14 June
San Sebastián
San Sebastián, from vine to viewpoint with Fermin
Fermín joins for the day. The morning begins at a family bodega just outside the city - a visit guided by Mikel, the owner's son-in-law, in the most convivial of atmospheres. Txakoli tasting - the Basque Country's own lightly sparkling white wine - alongside homemade pintxos, with views over the vines and a full explanation of the winemaking process. Authentic in every sense.
Lunch in the old town at Sua Arte, facing the cathedral - Etienne and Fermin's favourite pintxos address in San Sebastián.
The afternoon ends at Monte Igueldo, with a panoramic view over the entire Concha bay. San Sebastián seen from above is something else entirely.
Day 5 - Monday 15 June
Basque countryside & Pasaia
Tolosa, the fronton & Pasaia with Fermin
Fermín picks the group up for a day into the Basque hinterland. First stop: Tolosa, a charming town discovered in the company of Laura, a local guide who knows every corner of the place.
Lunch at a truly unique venue - a restaurant inside a real fronton, the emblematic Basque pelota court. History, architecture, and local cuisine in one sitting.
The day will also be remembered for a police stop en route. Seatbelts had gone unclipped. Fermín came very close to spending the rest of the afternoon in a cell. Everyone walked free - but it was a close call.
The afternoon brings Pasaia - a fishing village nestled at the mouth of a magnificent ria, rich in history and entirely off the tourist trail.
Day 6 - Tuesday 16 June - Hondarribia
Hondarribia, from the inside with Mikel
To truly discover a place, you need someone who grew up there. Mikel was born and raised in Hondarribia - which means the group got to see the town the way its own people see it, from the inside out.
Lunch at Asador Sutane Bodega Hirusta, in a beautiful setting - Basque gastronomy at its most genuine.
Day 7 - Wednesday 17 June Basque Coast
Along the French Basque coast with Fermin
Fermín accompanies the group along the French Basque coastline. Three villages with three very different characters: Bidart perched above the cliffs, Guéthary with its port and art deco villas, and Saint-Jean-de-Luz with its grand harbour and Basque architecture.
Lunch at Ostalamer, a beautiful address on the water with Katerina's friend - fresh fish, a lovely table, and absolutely no rush. A long, sun-drenched meal, as it should be.
Night at Villa Koegui, Biarritz.
Day 8 - Thursday 18 June
Deep Basque Interior
Into the French Basque interior with Fermin
The last day with Fermín, and a journey into the very heart of the French Basque Country. Three iconic villages: Espelette with its red-pepper-draped facades, Ainhoa - one of the most beautiful villages in France - and Sare nestled at the foot of the mountains.
Lunch at the Auberge Iparla in Bidarray, with sweeping views over the Basque mountains. A beautiful way to close these days together.
Fermín, who accompanied the group through so much of this journey, leaves with warm memories and the genuine joy of having met such a special group of people.
Day 9 - Friday 19 June
Biarritz to Bordeaux
The last road with Etienne
The last morning. One final pick-up outside Villa Koegui, the van loaded, and the road north. A hot day - especially as Bordeaux approached.
First stop: an oyster tasting on the shores of Lac d'Hossegor. Before setting off, John needed a coffee - which led to a discovery: a charming little café right on the Atlantic, where the group paused to take in the Landes coastline. One hundred kilometres of unbroken beach, the longest in France.
On the road, the conversation turned to the croques-maïs - the Landais people's nickname. The van erupted. Some laughs stay with you.
Drop-off in Bordeaux, in front of the hotel. Nine days, done. And Etienne drove home a little sad, and a great deal richer for having met this group.
