Few places in the Basque Country stop people in their tracks the way San Juan de Gaztelugatxe does. A tiny hermitage perched on a rocky islet, connected to the mainland by a winding stone staircase of 241 steps - it looks almost invented. It wasn't. And visiting it as part of a wider day from Bilbao or San Sebastián, with a stop in Getaria for lunch, makes for one of the best days you can have on the Basque coast.
Here's what you need to know.
What is San Juan de Gaztelugatxe?
San Juan de Gaztelugatxe (pronounced roughly "gas-teh-loo-GAH-cheh") is a small tidal islet on the Basque coast, in the municipality of Bermeo, about 35 km from Bilbao. A stone bridge and a steep cobbled path wind up to a 10th-century hermitage dedicated to Saint John the Baptist at the top. The climb involves 241 steps and takes about 20-30 minutes each way. At the top, tradition has it that you ring the bell three times and make a wish.
The site became internationally known after appearing in Game of Thrones as Dragonstone - but it was a pilgrimage destination long before the show existed, and it remains one.
Is it worth visiting?
Yes - genuinely. It's one of those places that lives up to its photos, which is rare. The landscape along the Basque coast here is dramatic: sheer cliffs, crashing Atlantic swells, green hills rolling down to the sea. The hermitage itself is modest inside, but the setting is extraordinary. Even on a grey day - maybe especially on a grey day - it has a real atmosphere.
That said, it's busy. If you visit in July or August on a weekend morning without planning ahead, you will share it with a large crowd. Timing and logistics matter.
The site is not easily reached by public transport. The nearest village is Bakio, from which it's a 3 km walk or drive to the car park at Gaztelugatxe. From the car park, it's a 15-20 minute walk down to the bridge and then the 241-step climb up.
By car from Bilbao: around 45 minutes via the BI-2101 coastal road. By car from San Sebastián: around 1h15, depending on the route.
The coastal road between Bilbao and the site is part of the experience - the cliffs and views along this stretch are exceptional.
Do you need to book in advance?
In high season (June to September), access is managed and reservations are required. The Basque government operates a free booking system through the Urdaibai Biosphere Reserve. Slots fill up quickly, especially for morning visits. If you're visiting between June and September, book as early as possible - often weeks ahead.
Outside high season, access is generally free and unrestricted, though conditions can be more challenging (wind, rain, slippery steps).
When is the best time to visit?
Early morning in summer gives you the best light and the fewest people. Late May, early June, or September are ideal: the weather is often excellent, crowds are more manageable, and the reservation system is less pressured. Avoid weekend afternoons in July and August if you can.
Winter visits are possible and have a wild beauty to them, but the steps can be slippery and the path can be closed in high winds or storms.
How do you combine San Juan de Gaztelugatxe with a full day tour?
This is where a private tour really makes a difference. The site sits roughly halfway between Bilbao and San Sebastián along the coast, which makes it a natural centrepiece for a day that covers both directions.
A well-paced itinerary looks something like this:
Departure from Bilbao or San Sebastián in the morning - early enough to arrive at Gaztelugatxe before the crowds build. The drive along the Basque coast is scenic enough to be part of the experience, not just transit.
San Juan de Gaztelugatxe - allow 1h30 to 2 hours, including the walk down, the climb, time at the top, and the return. Don't rush it.
Lunch in Getaria - this is the highlight that many people miss. Getaria is a small fishing village about 30 km east of the site (or on the way back toward San Sebastián), with one of the most charming harbour fronts on the Basque coast. The restaurants here serve fish that came off the boats that morning - grilled turbot, sea bream, anchovy - on terraces that look directly out over the port. It's the kind of lunch you talk about for months.
Afternoon in San Sebastián or return to Bilbao - depending on your base, the day finishes itself naturally. San Sebastián is 30 minutes from Getaria; Bilbao is around 1h15.
What should you eat in Getaria?
Turbot (rodaballo) is the signature dish and the reason Getaria has the reputation it does. The fish is grilled whole over charcoal on large outdoor grills facing the port - you can often smell it before you see it. It's served simply, with a little olive oil and lemon, because it doesn't need anything else. Sea bream (besugo), anchovy (anchoa), and kokotxas (cod cheeks) are also excellent depending on the season.
Getaria is also the birthplace of txakoli - the local slightly sparkling white wine, poured from a height to aerate it. It's the only right thing to drink with the fish.
The climb at Gaztelugatxe is demanding - 241 steps on an uneven stone path, with no real way around it. It's manageable for most people in reasonable health, but it's not suitable for those with significant mobility limitations. The steps are narrow in places and can be slippery when wet. Children generally love it.
Getaria is very easy - flat harbour area, accessible restaurants, a pleasant village to walk around.
What else is worth seeing nearby?
Bermeo is a working fishing town 10 minutes from Gaztelugatxe with a strong local character and a good seafood market. The Urdaibai Biosphere Reserve, which surrounds the site, is a protected estuary with birdwatching, kayaking, and villages worth exploring if you have more time. Zarautz, just east of Getaria, has the longest beach in the Basque Country and a relaxed surf town atmosphere.
Can you visit as part of a private guided tour?
Yes - and for most visitors coming from Bilbao or San Sebastián, it's the most practical option. A private tour handles the logistics: booking access in advance, timing the visit correctly, choosing the right route along the coast, and knowing which table at which restaurant in Getaria is worth the wait. It also means you're not spending the day working out parking or connections.
The Basque Way offers private day tours from both Bilbao and San Sebastián that include San Juan de Gaztelugatxe and a lunch stop in Getaria, tailored to your pace and interests. [Contact us] to discuss dates and put together an itinerary.
