Travel Diaries – Les Carnets de Route
Table of Contents
Who are Mr & Mrs B?
Day 1 – Basque Coastline, Surf Culture & Fishing Villages
Guéthary & Bidart – Local Cafés & Panoramic Views
Day 2 – Bayonne, Countryside & La Rhune Mountain Train
Hidden Villages – Arcangues, Saint-Pée, Sare & Ainhoa
Conclusion – The Basque Way Experience
Traveler Review
🇩🇪 Who Are Mr & Mrs B?
For this first edition of the Travel Diaries, I had the pleasure of guiding Mr and Mrs B, a German couple traveling through Biarritz, San Sebastián and Bilbao.
They wanted to make the most of their two days in Biarritz:
Day 1: the best coastal viewpoints + iconic Basque fishing villages
Day 2: mountain scenery + traditional inland villages
With one goal: not miss any of the most beautiful things the Basque Country has to offer in 48 hours.
This is the story of our two days together — full of culture, landscapes, unexpected encounters and authentic Basque experiences.
Day 1 – Basque Coastline, Surf Culture & Fishing Villages
I picked up Mr and Mrs B at their hotel in central Biarritz.
Our first stop was the Côte des Basques, one of the most beautiful viewpoints on the coast.
From the cliff, we talked about:
the history of surfing in Biarritz (arriving in the 1950s),
the Basque language (Euskara) and its mysterious origins,
the relaxed Basque lifestyle,
and the question every visitor asks: “How is everyone surfing here on a Thursday afternoon?”
The lineup was full of surf schools that day, so I promised we would see real local surfers later.
Guéthary – Coffee With a View at
Le Madrid
We headed south to Guéthary, one of my favorite Basque coastal villages.
We enjoyed a coffee at the iconic Madrid café, perched above the ocean.
Then, from the panoramic square, we watched local surfers riding powerful waves at the famous Parlementia break — exactly what I had promised earlier.
Mr and Mrs B were captivated.
Bidart – A Perfect Snapshot of
Basque Life
Next, we visited Bidart, a village that captures everything essential about Basque culture:
lively pedestrian square
traditional fronton court
authentic cafés
red-and-white Basque houses
breathtaking mountain views
I also brought them to one of my secret viewpoints, just a short walk from the center — a perfect spot where the ocean and the Pyrenees align beautifully.
During our walk, Mr B told me about his passion for historic trains.
Instantly, I thought of the La Rhune rack railway, perfect for the next day.
I showed them photos — they loved the idea — and I arranged the booking for the following afternoon.
To finish the day, I drove them back along the scenic coastal road and dropped them off at Chistera & Coquillages, a seafood restaurant I had booked for them in Biarritz.
Day 2 – Bayonne, Basque Countryside & La Rhune
A Morning Adapted to the Weather
As the Basque weather can be unpredictable, I adapted the plan:
Rain in the morning → Bayonne (perfect for culture & chocolate)
Clear sky in the afternoon → La Rhune mountain train
A Surprise Encounter: Amélie Mauresmo
On the way to Bayonne via Anglet’s ocean road, we crossed paths with Amélie Mauresmo, the last Frenchwoman to win Roland-Garros.
As tennis fans, Mr and Mrs B were thrilled — a special moment to start the day.
Bayonne – Chocolate, History & Medieval Streets
In Bayonne, we explored:
the city hall square,
stories about the famous Bayonne Festival,
the role of the city in Basque culture,
and the remarkable history of chocolate brought by Jewish refugees centuries ago.
We stopped at Maison Cazenave for their iconic hot chocolate.
Mr B bought several bars for friends and told me:
“I will never look at chocolate the same way again.”
Arcangues, Saint-Pée & The Peaceful Countryside
After Bayonne, we drove into the green Basque countryside:
Arcangues, surrounded by forests and offering a peaceful village atmosphere
Saint-Pée-sur-Nivelle, where we visited a quiet chapel entirely to ourselves
The mountain silhouette of La Rhune appeared in the distance - our next destination.
I had booked the rack railway the evening before.
At the station of Col de Saint-Ignace, everything was ready.
The train climbed slowly, offering:
wide-open views
wild horses
sheep grazing freely
breathtaking landscapes
and finally, the Atlantic Ocean visible from the summit
Mr and Mrs B told me:
“The organization is perfect — very German!”
A compliment I happily accepted.
At the top, we enjoyed simple Basque classics:
omelettes and jambon sandwiches, with a full 360° view over the mountains.
Sare & Ainhoa – Hidden Basque Gems
On the way down, we visited:
Sare, its fronton, quiet church and my favorite bakery for Basque cake
Ainhoa, one of the most beautiful villages in France, perfectly preserved since the 17th century
We discussed Basque family houses, traditions, and the heritage system that shapes village life.
A Perfect Ending in Biarritz
For the final stretch, I took the scenic backroads to show them one last time the Basque landscapes that make this region so unique.
I dropped them off at a rooftop bar in Biarritz to enjoy the sunset — the perfect conclusion to two unforgettable days.
Conclusion – What This Tour Represents
These two days with Mr and Mrs B perfectly illustrate what The Basque Way stands for:
authentic encounters
hidden villages and local culture
insider access to the best viewpoints
a tour fully adapted to the travelers
logistics taken care of from A to Z
A real Basque experience - personal, immersive and memorable.
"⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐
We had the great pleasure of spending several days with Etienne as our guide in the Basque Country. He is extremely professional, deeply knowledgeable, and shares his love for his homeland with contagious enthusiasm. Thanks to him, we not only learned a lot about the region’s history, culture, and traditions, but also truly felt its spirit. His organization was excellent, and he was always flexible, attentive, and thoughtful. It was a real privilege to experience this journey with him – highly recommended!"
